Small things Isfahan

I booked coming to Iran deliberately to coincide with their two week celebrations for,their new year. Which in-their lunar calendar  is the year 1398. We are now in Isfahan. And as there are lots of palaces and mosques and shrines to visit the town is full of  Iranian visitors.  I knew it would be busy and thought maybe it would not be a good idea as there will be crowds and there are... BUT my Iranian dentist on the Pat 

Bay highway said to me .. go. The atmosphere is worth experiencing and he was so right.  I do not think I ever stop smiling.  Our hotel is on a pedestrian way.. a about a kilometer long of trees and cafes and golf carts///yes. The ones that seat 12.. we got on one outside out hotel  and drove, more or less for fun to the end. Of the pedestrian way. 

A young teen ager came up to me almost immediately and I have learned to say.. hello you want t practice English?  ‘This little girl wants to study biology at 

Toronto.. she asked if I knew 

Toronto.  Her Mother and Father stood by while she introduced me to them , we talked for quite a while, lots of picture taking.  renaldo the Brazilian came up to stand  beside me, I explained he was from Brazil that seems to most people to be an impossibly long way away.  The morning continued like that.  We walked and walked into the third latest square in the world... after Tianmin and Red squares  they said,  it really was magnificent ,a lovely long water pool the sides were lined with either shops mosques or palaces. Running off from the sides are long covered bazaars, one two kilometres long.  A famous architect from India designed the Women’s mosque.  There was an underground tunnel through which the women would pass into the mosque which was very beautiful.  Mosques are not just places of worship. Much goes on in them, you can eat have picnics, bring coffee meet with your friends conduct business etc.  Now a days very few people actually go to a mosque to pray.  And altho you hear the call to prayer you do not see anyone rushing to put down a prayer mat.  In our hotel rooms there is always a prayer rug.

You learn about tile and mosaic.  The cheaper tile is just that.. coloured design fired actual squares mortered  onto the wall that is the quickest and cheapest way to decorate, but mosaic which is individual tiny pieces stays b right and shiny despite wind and sunshine and the centuries.  The second mosque we entered had a echo due to the double ceiling, standing in a particular place when you speak it echos.  Our wonderful guide was persuaded to say some Hafiz poetry which again attracted a crowd. He said that last time there was a young guard who stopped him and said he could only quote the Koran, but this time no one. 

This was a big mosque with lovely gardens but in search for a bathroom we met a bow legged man who said he would guide us we said we also wanted real coffee (Nescafé) is on offer at breakfast.  He waited and took us into the bazaar and through a carpet shop ut the back way to a great funny small Italian coffee shopwhere we met two  young people from Netherlands studying international affairs but now on the New Years break.  We had delicious coffee and sat and talked Meanwhile other Iranians came and talked to us ;; the WC guide owned the carpet shop but just gave us his card urging us to return.  

We left with our own guide and the rest. Then walked to the Palace of the 40 columns.  We entered to musical chaos and men circle dancing.  This was another fascinating palace.  40 column because altho there were 20 in reality 40 because the columns reflected in the pool in front.  

The palace had been looted by the various invading  armies but in the interior were beautiful paintings done in the European style. Here we could not move without having to answer the question.. where are you from?  Then Welcome to Iran... do you need any help?  Elderly women hug us and families  push their young children towards us and say can I  have a photo with you and my children.  Welcome to IRAN. ETC  teen age boy came and asked what did we think of Iran.  One woman asked Rosemary if Canadians liked Trump/.  

Finally we went to a basement restaurant for lunch, it was empty at first. But by the time we ordered it filled up.  There were two musicians  who played the entire time during lunch.. a violin and a variety of percussion .  The one man sang and told stories and then dancing around he kissed Rosemary on the head on her head scarf.  ... her fatal attraction. 

When we came out after lunch it was raining.. but we walked out to another  grand palace where the queen would have resided.  We climbed up 7 flights of irregular stairs to a view.  Again.. crowds with  of families, lot of questions.  We walked home past a very Andy hotel which used to be a caravanserais but had been converted into a 5 start hotel in 1957. It was rather fun to walk through all the luxury.  Our guide said they were a bit snooty ... 

now back to our hotel. Cell phone needs charging and we need a break plus tea.  We will start again in a cou0e of hours.  Hard work being a tourist.